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Thursday, 16 May 2013

Natural Waves and Poof Bangs/Fringe ~ Daenerys Targaryen Hair - Wig Tutorial

Muginami (sheep hair girl) wig from Rinne no Lagrange

This tutorial will cover how to get natural waves in human and synthetic hair including the different types of wig fibres you need to be aware of. The wig I'm using is not Daenerys Targaryen Platinum blonde shade of hair so forgive me on that but I would not make a good Daenerys cosplayer with my body shape. ;)
What you will need for the wig!

Curlers (foam or plastic)
a kettle or pot (to boil water)
Hair clips long
Wig (using a Le Tiger in Light Copper Red)
Clip in bangs (optional)
Hair Sheers
Hair Razor/ Feathering Razor
Hairspray (Got2B Glued brand for hold)

You can purchase your supplied from Ard Wigs (with international options) or Arda Wigs Canada.
Arda Le Tiger in Light Copper Red
This is what the base wig looked like. I don't have bangs in this case and when I cut them in they were a bit on the thin side. You can choose to sew in more weft into the bang area but I though I tryout the Longs Clip on Bangs instead.

Step 1:
Section out the hair. In this case, the band area needs to be separated from the rest of the wig. For Daenerys, her hair is all one length that you need to be able to centre part the wig. Arda has a few a skin part options. I will also post a tutorial on how to create a part on a button top wig like the Le Tiger latter.

Le Tiger in Light Copper Red and clip on bags

Step 2:
Braid the wig. In this case, I when with smaller braids to get waves and tighter natural waves. Doing these braids larger with create larger waves. For a wig like this if you do 3 to 4 large braid produce a little bot of the body to the wig. 

For Daenerys, you want to split the wig into 3 section in the back. The top section of hair in the crow you want to braid separately from the lower sections of the wig so that you braid start higher on the wig for her wavy texture.

Step 3:
Trim the bands, I like to braid first to hold the hair out of the way.

Thin lower bangs trimmed in advance

In this case I've attached the long bangs first to the wig.

This character had long curly side bangs so I'm curled and pin them away from the front bangs.
I've also blunt cut the bangs as a starting point for the trimming keeping them longer then normally so that the volume in the bangs once done will sit above my eyebrows.

Holding one section of hair at a time I use a pair of hair shears and cut the bangs vertically to feather out the blunt cut on them
feathered out

Next, I go back in with a Hair Razor to thin out the bangs more so that they are thinner towards the ends.  I use a chop and pull motion on small sections of hair while holding the ends while using the razor.

You can also use a pair of Thinning Sheers to do this but I like the razor for a more natural look to the bangs.

Finished shaping and feathering.

Step 4:
Putting the bangs into curlers. The curlers I have are large plastic ones that need to be pin/clipped into place. You want to section out the hair starting from the bottom and working your way back to the top layer.

Bottom bangs from wig

Middle layer of bangs

Here is an example of foam curlers. I need more of these to cover the same amount of hair.

Step 5:
Boil your water! Now that you hair is all up, set the style with boiled water. I used a kettle in this case 3 times to cover all the hair in braids in the back and the bangs. The kettle gives you more control while pouring and the idea is to saturate all the hair in the areas you want to heat style with the water.
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Once covered in the boiled water leave you wig to air dry in place

Step 6:
Time to style! I prefer to work on the bangs first that way the rest of the wig is still out of the way while styling.

Before taking out the curlers I blast the roots along the hairline with hairspray and last that set

Remove you curlers.

Pin back each layer of hair and again blast the roots with hairspray to let dry in that backwards position. This will create lifted roots to give the bangs more volume. I usually soak the rots in hair spray as well.

While waiting for the bang to dry I started to take out the braids.

Step 7: Finishing touches. 
The hair might have some harder kinking at the top of the braided area. These can actually be finger combed out without ruining the wave.

For this style, I brush the hair out with my fingers to get gentler waves. Daenerys has more piece waves to her hair so you want the leave the hair alone. ;)

The bangs you want to unclip each section of hair and sleek them out over the bottom layers with a comb.

The side bangs I pulled down and re-curled it by hand.

Finished bangs!

Human Hair! Human hair is super simple. You need to braid hair like the above method but tightly as you can, I recommend doing this just after you had a hot shower or on a wig again pour boiled water over them. If your hair has a lot of curls I find that a hot show and the weight of wet hair take out most of the curl our and make your hair more straight before braiding your hair up after getting out. If you have is naturally waves/curls this is all you need to set your waves for the nest day once you unbraid them. Just leave them to air dry in place over night. ;)

If you hair is not naturally wavy/curly I recommend heat setting the braid with a straightening iron while it's still damp. Before you take them out blast the braids with a little bit of extreme hold hair spray. Take out you hair and blast them one more time with hair spray to set them for the day

NOTE: You might also notice  the cosplay image of the wig looks different then the one in the tutorials. That wig was a new one using the same method but instead, I put the foam rollers into the bangs which were smaller than the plastic ones I first used. These smaller ones create more curls in the bangs, I like the look of the wig and kept them the second time instead of sleeking the bangs out.

I hope this helps! ;)

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