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Monday, 23 May 2016

Blue Correctors & why you might need them ~ with ALGENIST, MAKE UP FOR EVER, Purely Cosmetics, & The Estée Edit by Estée Lauder : Swatches & Review

PURCHASED / AFFILIATE LINKS
ALGENIST REVEAL Concentrated Color Correcting Drops in Blue,
MAKE UP FOR EVER Step 1 Skin Equalizer Primer in Radiant Primer Blue,
Purely Cosmetics Diamond Perfect Finish Powder,
& The Estée Edit by Estée Lauder Flash Photo Powder (Not shown)
The products I'm mentioning are:

The ALGENIST REVEAL Concentrated Color Correcting Drops in Blue retails for $38US and $50CAN for 0.5 oz of product.

The MAKE UP FOR EVER Step 1 Skin Equalizer Primer in Radiant Primer Blue retails for $37US and $45CAN for 1 oz of product.

The Purely Cosmetics Diamond Perfect Finish Powder retails for $20US for 6g of product.

The Estée Edit by Estée Lauder Flash Photo Powder retails for $32US and $40CAN for 0.21 oz of product.

Why use a Blue Corrector? 

Well despite what makeup brand will have you believe, there are more than 3 skin tone families. Red, Yellow, and Neutral are the most popular options however skin tones are a true range of red, yellow, and blue undertones for skin colour ranging the fairest of the fair to the deepest of the deep.

An easy way to tell that you need a blue corrector is when you test red based foundation they are too pink/red, Neural foundation look to Orange/Peach and Yellow foundations just look to yellow/orange on you skin. Basically, All Foundation don't really match your skin tone at all..... You are not alone either!

But chances are you might find a foundation the looks closer to you skin undertone but is just a bit off and here are your options.

How to Test before you Buy?
Before you buy a proper correct you can test foundation you own first with a blue cream lipstick or eyeshadow. You don't really want to use these for a foundation as the formula tend to not work well with foundation formulas but a tiny bit of blue pigment can goo a long way to chance a foundation shade.

But you also might have a high pigment cream for body painting that does work with the foundation. The key is more pigment and fewer binders to make it blend into your foundation.

MAKE UP FOR EVER Flash Palette is one of these products. ;)

MAKE UP FOR EVER also makes correcting drop for mixing into foundations but again they are expensive so test before you buy if you're looking for a corrector for your foundations in a shade you need.
How to mix?
I like to mix on a clean washable surface myself like a metal mixing palette with a spatula. You need to really blend the blue into the product because you don't want to have random blue freckles as you apply it to your face.
Yellow Based Foundations 
If you find that a yellow foundation that looks closest on you skin tone in a match, that means you probably have an Olive undertone. This is a foundation shade you mostly find in the Asian market, that actually matches you pretty closely. To correct for a foundation that is seem slightly too yellow try to add a blue corrector to it slowly. 
If you more yellow foundation reads as a more yellow/orange compared to your skin tone chance are you closer suited to a Neutral shades foundation or Red based foundation. 
I personally found out the hard way over a decade ago that I was Olive toned by trying out Mehron's range of Olive foundations. In fact, the only brands on the market that cater to olive skin tones in North America are makeup industry brand like Kett, RCMA, MAQPRO to name a few others.

Neutral (yellow/red) Based Foundations 
If you find that a Neutral foundation still reads too orange/peach on your skin tone but Red Foundations and Yellow Foundations are way off chances are you have a True Neutral skin tone. When you add a blue correct you find that your foundation matches so much better to your skin tone as you cool the shade down. 
Another option is that after adding blue you might find your foundation is too cool/pink tone. You might actually be in the Olive Family as well. I found that adding a green corrector to Neutral foundation also got me closer to my winter shade as well (olive pale). So if adding green(yellow/blue) to a Neutral foundation gives you a chance of also finding a match in a Yellow foundation range. 
Red Based Foundations 
If you find that a red foundation that looks closest on you skin tone in a match, But is still looks to warm/orange chance are you might have a purple undertone to your skin. This skin type usually occurs in medium to deep skin tones because melanin richness in the skin is reqiured. This all over purple tone is rare but not uncommon either. Most of the time spots of purple tone are corrected with orange in the face to even out your skin tone. 
But you might have a genuinely purple based skin tone and your foundation reads too warm/orange. Blue will correct this disconnect with your foundation.
What if I have a red face that doesn't match my body?
Chances are you have reactive skin, eczema, or other forms of skin irritations. This is just your body way of dealing with irritation to the skin by flush the area affected by extra blood flow that becomes visible like after you get sunburned.

I try to match my face to other parts of my body that get a similar amount of sun. My neck is always pale and I try not to make myself  look sickly so I match my upper arm area and chest. lol

Has your foundation gone too ashy/cool?
Either You don't need a blue corrector or you picked the wrong undertone for your foundation. This is something you have to discover for yourself, but don't get frustrated it's just makeup and it washes off.


Products I've Tried that are Blue Correctors: 

ALGENIST REVEAL Concentrated Color Correcting Drops in Blue
ALGENIST REVEAL Concentrated Color Correcting Drops in Blue
ALGENIST REVEAL Concentrated Color Correcting Drops in Blue
ALGENIST REVEAL Concentrated Color Correcting Drops in Blue
The ALGENIST REVEAL Concentrated Color Correcting Drops in Blue, this one I wanted to love because it's just soo rare to find liquid blue corrector. It not so much that it didn't work but the pigmentation was very sheer. If you wanted a layer under foundation or on bare skin this is a relatively undetectable. But this Blue is a VERY white base blue so make sure you also want to lighten your skin tone with it as well.

Another thing this failed on is the mixing properties. I really could not see the blue tint adding to my foundation to cool it down because it a sheer product. It did lighten and thin out my foundations though.

Wear: This one work on my bare skin for about 9 hours.... but iI look a bit crazy/ashy white on its own as it cancelled out my olive skin tone. lol

Ingredients:
Water, Dimethicone, Mica, Nylon-12,PEG-10Dimethicone,Talc,TitaniumDioxide, Glycerin, Acrylates/ Dimethicone Copolymer, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Algae Exopolysaccharides, Chlorella Protothecoides Oil, Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract, HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Isododecane, Magnesium Sulfate, Silica, Methicone, Hydrogen Dimethicone, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Sodium Chloride, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysat, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Ultramarines (CI 77007), Iron Oxides (CI 77492, CI 77499), Titanium Oxide (CI 77891).

MAKE UP FOR EVER Step 1 Skin Equalizer Primer in Radiant Primer Blue
MAKE UP FOR EVER Step 1 Skin Equalizer Primer in Radiant Primer Blue
The MAKE UP FOR EVER Step 1 Skin Equalizer Primer in Radiant Primer Blue is also on the sheer side but denser than the ALGENIST REVEAL Concentrated Color Correcting Drops in Blue. Thi sis also a closer to a baby blue shade.

This shade on bare skin does correct you yellow/orange tones and is still sheer enough to not look too weird on bare skin. As a primer, it does help with foundation longevity. And finally mix into foundation it does both cool down and lighten your shade. But also thins out the product as well.

Wear: This one work on my bare skin for about 12+ hours.

Ingredients:
Aqua (Water), Methyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Alcohol, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Butylene Glycol, Isododecane, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Alumina, Glycerin, Mica, Phenoxyethanol, Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer, Aluminium Hydroxide, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Dimethicone, Parfum (Fragrance), PEG-10 Dimethicone, Silica Silylate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Propylene Carbonate, CI 77007 (Ultramarines), Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Root Extract, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, BHT, Ethylhexylglycerin, CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), Methicone, Tocopherol, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Limonene.
Daylight swatch: ALGENIST REVEAL Concentrated Color Correcting Drops in Blue, 
MAKE UP FOR EVER Step 1 Skin Equalizer Primer in Radiant Primer Blue. Applied heavy and buffed out.
Flash swatch: ALGENIST REVEAL Concentrated Color Correcting Drops in Blue, 
MAKE UP FOR EVER Step 1 Skin Equalizer Primer in Radiant Primer Blue. Applied heavy and buffed out.

Purely Cosmetics Diamond Perfect Finish Powder
Purely Cosmetics Diamond Perfect Finish Powder
Purely Cosmetics Diamond Perfect Finish Powder ingredients
Purely Cosmetics Diamond Perfect Finish Powder
Daylight swatch: Purely Cosmetics Diamond Perfect Finish Powder is on the left side of gel liner and foundation swatches.
Flash swatch: Purely Cosmetics Diamond Perfect Finish Powder is on the left side of gel liner and foundation swatches
The Purely Cosmetics Diamond Perfect Finish Powder is a super fine milled powder that optically blurs the texture of skin and casts blue light on the surface. This has been a Holy Grail setting powder for years for me and it brings life back into my foundation by just shifting the wavelength of light hitting the surface of your skin. It also 100% transparent once you knock off any excess powder.

I know it's hard to tell from the swatches about but it cancels out some of the orangeness in my warm yellow foundations I use.

The blurring effect is not a pore/texture filler though but it just softer the look of the surface of the skin and imitates your natural skin's translucent qualities which make it my favourite setting powder.

Wear: Once it sets the foundation it's pretty much there all day!

Estée Edit by Estée Lauder Flash Photo Powder
The Estée Edit by Estée Lauder Flash Photo Powder

The Estée Edit by Estée Lauder Flash Photo Powder is a pale off white with a blue tint. This powder is Talc base and very stiff in the pan. But I found that despite how finely milled this powder looks it was very mattifying on the skin and can cake up over non silicone based foundation. I also didn't fine that it adding any blue tone to the skin or blurring properties over foundations.

Wear: I still does set you faoundation for the long haul.


Packaging: 
ALGENIST REVEAL Concentrated Color Correcting Drops cone in a glass bottle with and eyedropper cap. 

The MAKE UP FOR EVER Step 1 Skin Equalizer Primers come in a squeeze tube with a small nozzle.

Purely Cosmetics Diamond Perfect Finish Powder comes in a plastic jar with a spinning closeable sifter insert. 

The Estée Edit by Estée Lauder Flash Photo Powder come in a small plastic compact with a mirror.

PRODUCT WINNERS
Purely Cosmetics Diamond Perfect Finish Powder I still on the hunt for setting powder that does what this does! I think anyone can benefit from this powder.

The MAKE UP FOR EVER Step 1 Skin Equalizer Primer in Radiant Primer Blue is also a nice correcting primer if you're looking to brighten orange/yellow tones all over the face. But not really ideal for mixing with foundations.

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